Dawn patrol! Dawn patrol!
Let’s hit the waves
The sun’s coming up and the swell’s on it’s way!
Though yesterday was flat, the tide has totally turned
It’s well overhead and barreling for sure!
So Sonny the Surfer rolled out of bed
He was stoked as a seagull with a fresh piece of bread
Sonny was certain today was the day
It had to be out there, that one perfect wave
A shortboard? A fish? A funboard? A gun?
Which one should I take? There’s a wave for each one?
On his nine-o single fin he never took off late
His timing was perfect he’d never hesitate
No wave was too big no drop was too tall
He was calm and relaxed on A-frames and walls
He rode in slow motion his footwork was pro
He leaned back and balanced ten toes off the nose
On his shredder little shortboard he charged without fear
He carved up the wave like his board was a spear
His bottom turn was sharp then he’d hit the lip hard
He’d spray it off the back or pull an air like a star
Sonny was a goofy foot and his backside sublime
But he loved to go left as he shot down the line
But no matter which way, right or left with the shore
He was searching for a wave that was epic to the core
He paddled right out after choosing his board
It was a foot overhead and the winds were offshore
The first wave he caught he dropped into the tube
Covered by the barrel he stood in the green room
The silence was deafening like an unconscious haze
The scenery so gnarly Sonny started to daze
Then out from the wave that rolled over head
Peeked a gray dolphin who waved then he said:
“Sonny the Surfer we’re stoked that you made it
Is this wave the one for which you’ve anxiously waited?”
In the still of the moment, in the thick of the pit
“I don’t think so,” said Sonny as the wave howled and spit
“There must be a better one waiting for me,
On some hidden beach break or point break or reef.”
Then suddenly his head snapped back and to the side
He’d been slapped by a seal who was stealing a ride
“Get a hold of yourself, Son! Look around, don’t you see
The magnificent beauty of this wave’s majesty”
Sonny was stunned, he was no longer relaxed
His face had been stung by a slick flipper’s attack
Then directly above him an octopus dropped
With her suction cup tentacles she plopped and she flopped
She wrapped around Sonny with her eight gooey legs
And said: “Just run your hands through the smooth of the wave.”
“Because every wave is different and every wave deserves
The utmost respect for it’s curls and curves.”
Then crash! Came a turtle who was stuck on his back
He couldn’t turn over he was stuck to the wax
“Take everything slow, absorb all that you can
You’re still just a grom and, you’ll soon be a man”
Then through the wall of the barreling tube
Sonny caught the eye of the gentlest blue
An enormous blue whale bellowed beneath
In a low booming voice he started to speak:
“Sonny the Surfer, you must understand
Every wave is special like every woman and man”
“Some may be short or some may be tall
Some may be fat or some may be small
Some waves are nasty and some waves are chill
Some waves are mushy glass mountains and hills
But any wave you catch on your quest for the best
Remember what we’ve told you, remember this request:
Please, treat the ocean kindly and protect her with care
There’s a perfect wave waiting for everyone out there
Stay patient and mindful of the beauty of the sea
For perfection’s in the journey just waiting to be seen.”
And at that very moment, Sonny shot from the shack
And the spit from the wave hissed and splattered his back
The wave of a lifetime had come to its end
And Sammy now knew what he didn’t know then
He had found the perfection in the ocean blue bliss
But his search wasn’t over this quest was endless
So he paddled back out to the lineup with his friends
And up from a duck dive he yelled and he said:
“So stoked! I’m so psyched! That wave was so rad!
You wouldn’t believe the ride I just had!”
Then he sat still and patient with his eyes out to find
The next perfect wave, the next perfect ride.
Green Room Glossary:
A-frame: a wave in the shape of the letter A. The peak creates two sides upon which a surfer can ride left or right; or two surfers could ride in opposite directions.
air: a maneuver in which a surfer launches off the wave into the air while on the board and successfully lands back on the wave.
backside: a position in which a surfer’s back is toward the wave.
barrel: a barrel is a common term to define the hollow space created inside of a wave as it breaks. The wave resembles a hollow barrel. (synonyms: tube, green room, shack)
barreling: the act of a wave breaking and creating hollow space within which a surfer can ride.
beachbreak: surf that breaks along a beach as the swell approaches the shore.
bottom turn: the turn a surfer makes at the bottom of the wave after he or she has completed the drop in.
carve: turning on a wave
charge: aggressively riding a wave with confidence
chill: relaxed, calm.
ride: the act of catching and surfing on a wave.
dawn patrol: the act of waking up at dawn to go surf.
duck dive: the act of diving under a wave with a surfboard.
epic: perfect condition; ideal
epic to the core: perfect conditions inside and out; extremely epic.
fish: shape style of a surfboard; a fish is typically thicker, rounder and wider than the typical shortboard.
foot work: the act of a moving and walking along a longboard.
funboard: mid-size shape style surfboard; combines elements of longboard and shortboard.
glassy: very smooth water.
gnarly: 1. amazing, awesome 2. heavy surf 3. ugly, choppy water
goofy foot: a surfer who rides with his or her right foot forward, left foot back.
green room: the hollow space created inside of a wave as it breaks. The color green is reflected through the hollow space inside a wave. (synonyms: barrel, tube, shack)
grom: a young surfer (short for grommet)
gun: a shape and style surfboard for big waves- large, long, and narrow.
Hang Ten: hanging ten toes over the nose of a longboard while riding a wave.
left: a surfer’s left side as he or she paddles for a wave. (as a verb: to go left on a wave from the surfer’s perspective.)
the line: the imaginary line or path a surfer takes on a wave.
lineup: the line of surfers beyond the break waiting to catch waves.
lip: the top edge or crest of a wave.
mushy: slow and poorly shaped waves. Barely breaking.
nine-0: measurement for a long board: nine feet, zero inches
offshore: direction of the wind blowing off the shore and onto the ocean. Offshore winds smooth the surf and hold waves up for a better shape.
overhead: measurement of wave height. Usually scaled to someone who is 6 feet tall.
pit: the most hollow part of a tube or barrel or green room.
point break: a break that is created by a peninsula of land where the waves peel off the point as the reach the shore.
psyched: exhilarated; extremely excited; perfect state of mind; stoked
pull an air: to ride the surfboard up a wave and into the air, while maintaining balance and footing to land back on the wave.
rad: awesome, cool, fun.
reef: submarine growth of coral, or rock structure. A reef break is one that breaks over the coral or rock reef.
ride: the act of being on a wave and sliding on it with a surfboard.
right: a surfer’s right side as he or she paddles for a wave. (as a verb: to go right on a wave from the surfer’s perspective.)
shack: the barrel, tube, green room. To be shacked is to surf inside the barrel. Sometimes refers to being closed out inside the barrel.
shortboard: the typical shape and style of a board short in length, usually measuring between 6 and 7 feet.
shredder: a good surfer. Usually referring to a surfer turning sharply and repeatedly with speed, style, and balance.
single fin: a surfboard with one fin. The fin is under the board and designed to help a surfer with direction and turning; similar to a rudder on a boat. (There are other styles such as: twin fins (2), and tri-fins (3). (Synonym: skeg, skag).
spit: the spray of the water coming out of the barrel when it is closing.
spray: hitting the lip of the wave with the surfboard in a turn, creating spray that flies off the crest and onto the back of the wave.
stoked: extremely excited; surf euphoria.
swell: a long often massive and crestless wave or succession of waves often continuing beyond or after its cause. Swells indicate oncoming surf.
ten toes off the nose: see also Hang Ten. hanging ten toes over the nose of a longboard while riding a wave.
timing: the pace and rhythm a surfer has to engage him or herself properly to catch a wave.
tube: a tube is a common term to define the hollow space created inside of a wave as it breaks. The wave resembles a tube. (synonyms: barrel, green room, shack)
wall: a wave that breaks all at once, leaving virtually no where to surf. Also refers to waves that are very steep and closed out.
wax: surfboard wax is applied to the top of the board to provide traction for a surfer’s feet.
Thanks for reading! Would you like to make a one-time donation in support of the poem? Your contribution is much appreciated.
– Joey B.
Make a monthly donation
Make a yearly donation
Choose an amount
Or enter a custom amount
Your contribution is appreciated.
Your contribution is appreciated.
Your contribution is appreciated.DonateDonate monthlyDonate yearly